Of Hell Valleys, Snow Sports, and Volcanoes

In addition to the tour of Hokkaido’s central region the other day, we were also able to book another tour through Klook. This included a tour to Hokkaido’s southern area, which includes the cities of Chitose and Noboribetsu and the and the town of Sobetsu. We were eager to seize this opportunity, as we had read in various blogs and watched several travel videos highlighting the stunning winter scenery in these parts of Hokkaido. Furthermore, we were excited about the prospect of riding snowmobiles for the first time!

The day started as usual. We took the train to Odori Station and eagerly waited for our tour bus at its exit 31. The bus came in time and this time, it’s a smaller bus compared to the one that we rode in Biei. The bus accommodated probably just 15 of us.

The first stop was Jigokudani, or “Hell Valley,” located in Noboribetsu, an onsen city in Hokkaido. Noboribetsu is known for its wide range of hot springs, from standard to premier resorts. The area is volcanic, similar to much of Hokkaido’s landscape. As you approach the parking lot, you can immediately detect a sulfuric odor in the air. The otherworldly scene of bleached rocks, steaming pools, and the strong smell creates a hellish landscape that evokes the feeling of demons surfacing from the earth. It’s truly another landscape worth capturing.

The next stop was the Usuzan Ropeway in Sobetsu, which is about 30 minutes away from Jigokudani. The entire Mt. Usu complex is volcanic. The ropeway takes you from a platform in the parking lot up to approximately 500 meters above sea level, bringing you close to the crater of the active Mt. Usu. At the summit, you can hike another 100 meters to reach the observatory. Winters in this area can be quite harsh, so it’s essential to equip yourself properly. The observatory features an open space similar to a park, providing a full 360-degree view of the winter landscapes from the top of the hill. This includes a picturesque view of the nearby Lake Toya, Showa Shinzan, and the crater of Mt. Usu itself, which is adorned with puffs of steam and smoke.

At the summit of the observatory.
View of Lake Toya from the observatory.
The ropeway seen from the observatory summit.

We hiked back to the ropeway station, which would take us back to the parking lot. There, we found a souvenir shop and an opportunity to take a quick tour of the park’s bear ranch. Eager to see the bears, we didn’t miss out on the chance to take a quick tour. Unfortunately, many of the bears hibernate during the winter, so a lot of them were not present. However, we were fortunate enough to see some black bears and a few wild crows.

Showa Shinzan, a lava mound that was created between 1943-1945.

We made a pleasant detour to Lake Hill Farm, a charming shop that showcases a delightful range of locally-produced dairy products, including freshly prepared soft-serve ice cream, butters, milk jams, and more. We seized the opportunity to taste Hokkaido’s renowned dairy offerings, and we were very satisfied with our experience. Soft-serves in winter? Why not?

Our final destination was the snowmobile track in Sobetsu, just about 15 minutes away from the Lake Hill Farm. The tour offers an optional ride as part of the tour. For those interested in riding in tandem, the fee is JPY 12,000 per snowmobile, while individual riders can enjoy the experience for JPY 14,000. All necessary safety gear is provided, and participants can look forward to an exciting hour-long ride along the scenic and icy tracks of Sobetsu, with a brief break midway.

As it was our first experience with snowmobiling, we initially felt a bit apprehensive, but we quickly grew more comfortable. It’s important to note that in adherence to the park’s safety policies, taking photos or videos while riding is not permitted. However, guests are welcome to capture moments during the break when the snowmobiles are parked, which occurs about halfway through the ride. Overall, it was a truly rewarding experience, and we highly recommend it!

Our tour, filled with unforgettable and first-time moments, had to come to an end. The experiences we shared and the memories we created will surely remain with us for the rest of our lives.

As we made the two-hour bus ride back to our hotel, the streets of Sapporo unfolded before us. Finally, we approached Odori Station with the view of Sapporo’s iconic TV Tower standing tall and vibrant against the night sky.

A Glimpse of Hokkaido’s Central Region

During our winter trip to Hokkaido, Ayacchan successfully booked two guided tours through Klook that took us to various locations across the island. The first tour lasted the entire day and included visits to Asahikawa, Biei, and Furano. The second tour featured Noboribetsu‘s “Hell Valley,” Mount Usu (Usuzan), Lake Toya, Lake Hill Farm, and an hour-long snowmobile ride on a winter-only track in town.

Let us first take you on the first tour: Asahikawa, Biei, and Furano.

We began our day with a delightful breakfast at the hotel. After breakfast, we made our way to Exit 31 of Odori Station, where tour buses were set to meet their respective groups. Arriving promptly at 8 AM, we eagerly awaited our tour bus, surrounded by fellow travelers who were also waiting for theirs, as snow continued to fall around us.

The tour was conducted in English and Mandarin, catering to a group of Chinese, Indonesian, and Singaporean tourists. We set off from Odori Station in Sapporo, which took us to our first destination, Asahikawa. The scenic drive lasted approximately two hours, offering glimpses of the breathtaking winter landscapes and picturesque countryside that Japan is renowned for.

Asahikawa's Asahiyama Zoo

Before arriving at Asahikawa Zoo, our tour guide provided important guidelines about what to do and avoid during our visit. We were also informed about our time limit and the key attractions we shouldn’t miss, including the famous Penguin Parade.

We spent approximately two hours exploring the zoo and seeing the various animals. During our visit, we saw black bears, polar bears, wolves, various birds, reptiles, and monkeys. However, the highlight of the day was the main event: the Penguin Parade.

People are now starting to line up for the show!
Click on photo to enlarge.
Click on photo to enlarge.
Click on photo to enlarge.
Click on photo to enlarge.

After the parade, we took our time to explore and take pictures. Once we finished, we returned to the bus just in time. Our next stop was Biei’s “Christmas Tree.”

Biei's "Christmas Tree"

Biei’s Christmas Tree is one of Hokkaido’s Six Unique Trees. It is a solitary Tohi spruce that draws tourists with its picturesque appearance, standing alone, proudly on a blanket of snow. During our visit, we were given just a few minutes to take in the beautiful sight.

The snow-covered landscapes were surreal, blanketing the ground in a pristine layer of white that mirrored the overcast, gray skies above. The solitary tree stood proudly against the winter backdrop. The stillness of the scene created a serene atmosphere. Many believe that winter is the best time to photograph the tree, as the beauty of the snow fields contrasting the tree is simply mesmerizing.

The Shirogane Blue Pond

Our next stop was Shirogane Blue Pond, located in Biei. This man-made pond was created due to the work done on the Biei River. The striking blue color is thought to be due to aluminum hydroxide in the water, which originated from the 1988 eruption of the nearby Mount Tokachi. Unfortunately, the area is covered in a thick blanket of snow during the winter, transforming the supposedly Blue Pond into a Frozen White Pond. Instead of exploring the icy scenery, we decided to visit a nearby shop to buy blue soft-serve ice cream, which was perfect to enjoy in the cold weather surrounded by beautiful landscapes.

The Shirahige Waterfalls

Our next stop was the Shirahige Waterfalls in the Shirogane Onsen area of Biei, Hokkaido. The falls are formed by a cluster of groundwater streams that gush out from the cliffside into the stream below. The park features a bridge that allows visitors to walk and take in the area’s spectacular natural beauty. Below runs the Biei River, which is often referred to as the “Blue River” because of its striking deep cobalt blue hue. Among all the places we visited that day, Shirahige Waterfalls was the most breathtaking. It felt like stepping into a living postcard.

Furano's Herb Hill

Our tour came to an end at Herb Hill in Furano. Here, visitors can explore an exquisite range of lavender products, from soothing oils to lotions and scents. There were also various dairy products since Hokkaido is well known for its dairy farms. Prices range from affordable to luxury. Inside the shop were also food stalls, an ice cream station, and a soup kitchen serving comforting bowls of warmth.

After a delightful day in Asahikawa, Biei, and Furano, it was time to head back to Sapporo. The journey took approximately two hours, offering us a chance to reflect on the beautiful landscapes we had just experienced. We arrived at Odori Station around 7 PM, boarding the train back to our hotel near the lively Susukino district. On our way home, we stumbled upon these lovely snow lanterns at the nearby Nakajima-koen. We didn’t waste the immortalize the moment and took photos around before finally walking back to our hotel.

Hokkaido’s winters are truly captivating. The snow-covered scenery is reminiscent of a scene straight out of a postcard or a cinematic masterpiece. Each moment feels magical as we take in the stunning nature that surrounds us.

Memories of Otaru

We took a late morning train from JR Sapporo Station to Otaru Station, arriving just in time for lunch. To fully maximize the daylight, we decided to skip lunch. In winter, the sun sets in Hokkaido as early as 4 PM, and many attractions, including the Otaru Aquarium, close earlier because of this limited daylight. So, after disembarking from the train, we immediately caught a bus to transport us to the Otaru Aquarium, eager to make the most of our visit.

Upon arrival at Otaru Station, heavy snowfall welcomed us.

The bus ride from Otaru Station to Otaru Aquarium took us approximately 20 minutes. Buses returning to Sapporo Station run every hour until sunset. Upon disembarking, we were immediately met with a powerful blizzard. The Otaru Aquarium proudly sits atop a hill to the northwest of Otaru City. It’s well-known that this area experiences winter blizzards frequently.

I remember jokingly telling Ayacchan that our winter trip in Hokkaido wouldn’t be complete without experiencing a blizzard.

Now, there’s your blizzard, Rei-san.

Ayacchan almost gave up. “Let’s just turn back and catch the next bus back to Otaru Station,” she said as we tried to shelter at a nearby bus stop.

Let’s just wait for a moment. It will be over soon, I promise.” I reassured.

After a while, the blizzard had not stopped. It weakened, sure, but it had not stopped. The people we were with at the bus stop started to climb up the hill toward the aquarium’s entrance.

Let’s go. Just be careful. I’ll be right behind you.” I told her.

We faced the blizzard head-on and climbed the hill for the next ten minutes. Once we arrived, we immediately went to the booth to purchase our tickets. We stepped inside, where an artificial fireplace warmly greeted us. We immediately nestled next to it, soaking in the warmth and comfort.

Ahhhh. Kimochi!” (“Ahhh. It feels good!”) we said in unison.

We've arrived, finally!
Status Effect: FROZEN (Decreased STR, AGI, STA, Movement SPD) lasting for 300s.
Our post-blizzard look.
The view on top of the hill after our scenic ascent. The bus stop is the one on the centre.

We entered the aquarium where winter animals were waiting for us. Luckily, we arrived just in time for the Penguin Walk and the Dolphin show. (You may check out the Otaru Aquarium website for the show schedules)

Of course, they're cute!

The penguins walked gracefully in front of the crowd as if they were determined to entertain every human eye watching them. Their elegant movements were captivating, drawing everyone’s attention just a few centimeters away from where the audience stood.

The dolphins never failed to amaze us. They are known for their intelligence and ability to perform complex cognitive tasks, such as problem-solving, using tools, and engaging in intricate social interactions. All of these skills were showcased by these dolphins at the Otaru Aquarium. It’s a show that you must see!

We decided to take a cab back to the city, as we didn’t want to waste time waiting more than half an hour for the next bus. This decision allowed us to make the most of the remaining daylight since it was nearly 4 PM. The ride took about 15 minutes and cost us approximately 2,500 JPY. It’s worth noting that cabs in Hokkaido are much more affordable compared to those in Tokyo, and Osaka.

As we made our way north from Otaru Station, remnants of the blizzard still lingered around us. We took a moment to warm up inside a mall before continuing our walk. The stroll lasted about ten minutes and covered roughly five blocks. Ultimately, we arrived at Otaru’s most popular attraction: the Otaru Canal. This iconic waterway, known for its beautifully preserved warehouses and historical significance, has become a must-see destination for both visitors and locals.

At first, I found myself wondering, “What makes a canal so special that it attracts so many visitors?” But when I finally saw it with my own eyes, I understood why it was a must-see. The scene was nothing short of enchanting, reminiscent of a scene from a movie. The area was lined with vintage lamp posts, casting a warm, romantic glow across the water, while vibrant snow lanterns flickered alongside in the gentle breeze, a sign of the ongoing Otaru Light Festival.

There was an option to take a scenic boat cruise along the Canal for approximately 1,000 JPY per person. Unfortunately, due to the heavy snowfall during our visit, the service was suspended. Undeterred, we decided to explore the canal on foot. Strolling along the frozen banks, we marveled at the charming historical buildings lining the waterway and the flickering beauty of the snow lanterns. It turned out to be an unforgettable experience, allowing us to delve into the winter atmosphere at our own pace.

We waited for nightfall just for this. Totally worth it.

Otaru is truly beautiful during the winter months, with its streets blanketed in snow and twinkling lights illuminating the night. Ayacchan and I made a pact to revisit this beautiful city and explore its charm in different seasons, eager to see it in full bloom during spring, bask in the vibrant colors of autumn, and enjoy the warm days of summer. We can’t wait to experience everything Otaru has to offer throughout the year.

The 2025 Sapporo Winter Festival Experience

We don’t know how long this series will last, but one thing is certain. Hokkaido’s winter is surreal.

We aim to keep this series concise and focused, highlighting the photos and memorable experiences from our first winter together. I have yet to complete the posts from our trips last year, but here I am, diving into this season’s adventures.

Having grown up in the warm, tropical climate, experiencing winter is a luxury. For many, savoring such a distinct season requires booking a flight to snow-covered destinations. This often means investing in relatively expensive travel to places like Japan, Korea, various regions in Europe and Canada, and specific areas in the United States.

After two legs of our flight (MNL-HND-CTS), we arrived in Sapporo via Chitose’s new airport. We took a rapid train to Sapporo (JPY 1,100 for non-reserved, JPY 1800 for reserved seating), which took about 40 minutes, and then walked a few more minutes to reach our hotel near Nakajimakoen (Nakajima Park). Every street was covered in snow, with occasional puddles of water and slippery areas that made our walk to the hotel extra challenging. To make things worse, we were hauling two large pieces of luggage with us.

We finally arrived at our hotel. After a quick rest and bath, we decided to visit Odori Park, one of the three sites that host Sapporo City’s annual Snow Festival, alongside the Susukino and Tsudome sites. We took the Sapporo metro (JPY 210 per passenger per way), which took less than ten minutes from our station.

We witnessed enormous and intricately detailed sculptures crafted from snow and ice. Iconic characters lined the 1.5 km stretch of Odori Park, featuring beloved characters from Pokémon, the Kewpie mayonnaise mascot, Rimuru from “That Time I Was Reincarnated as a Slime,” Monster Hunter Wilds, and many more.

In addition to the sculptures, various food stalls were throughout the park. We eagerly tried everything that piqued our curiosity, including fresh venison curry served with hot rice, buttery hot potatoes, Hokkaido milk, and ice cream, among other delights. The festival is free, allowing you to enjoy as much as you want throughout the week of the festivities.

It was getting late, and the sun was about to set at 16:40. Snow started to fall. It’s time to visit Odori Park’s most visited site: The Sapporo TV Tower.