Of Hell Valleys, Snow Sports, and Volcanoes

In addition to the tour of Hokkaido’s central region the other day, we were also able to book another tour through Klook. This included a tour to Hokkaido’s southern area, which includes the cities of Chitose and Noboribetsu and the and the town of Sobetsu. We were eager to seize this opportunity, as we had read in various blogs and watched several travel videos highlighting the stunning winter scenery in these parts of Hokkaido. Furthermore, we were excited about the prospect of riding snowmobiles for the first time!

The day started as usual. We took the train to Odori Station and eagerly waited for our tour bus at its exit 31. The bus came in time and this time, it’s a smaller bus compared to the one that we rode in Biei. The bus accommodated probably just 15 of us.

The first stop was Jigokudani, or “Hell Valley,” located in Noboribetsu, an onsen city in Hokkaido. Noboribetsu is known for its wide range of hot springs, from standard to premier resorts. The area is volcanic, similar to much of Hokkaido’s landscape. As you approach the parking lot, you can immediately detect a sulfuric odor in the air. The otherworldly scene of bleached rocks, steaming pools, and the strong smell creates a hellish landscape that evokes the feeling of demons surfacing from the earth. It’s truly another landscape worth capturing.

The next stop was the Usuzan Ropeway in Sobetsu, which is about 30 minutes away from Jigokudani. The entire Mt. Usu complex is volcanic. The ropeway takes you from a platform in the parking lot up to approximately 500 meters above sea level, bringing you close to the crater of the active Mt. Usu. At the summit, you can hike another 100 meters to reach the observatory. Winters in this area can be quite harsh, so it’s essential to equip yourself properly. The observatory features an open space similar to a park, providing a full 360-degree view of the winter landscapes from the top of the hill. This includes a picturesque view of the nearby Lake Toya, Showa Shinzan, and the crater of Mt. Usu itself, which is adorned with puffs of steam and smoke.

At the summit of the observatory.
View of Lake Toya from the observatory.
The ropeway seen from the observatory summit.

We hiked back to the ropeway station, which would take us back to the parking lot. There, we found a souvenir shop and an opportunity to take a quick tour of the park’s bear ranch. Eager to see the bears, we didn’t miss out on the chance to take a quick tour. Unfortunately, many of the bears hibernate during the winter, so a lot of them were not present. However, we were fortunate enough to see some black bears and a few wild crows.

Showa Shinzan, a lava mound that was created between 1943-1945.

We made a pleasant detour to Lake Hill Farm, a charming shop that showcases a delightful range of locally-produced dairy products, including freshly prepared soft-serve ice cream, butters, milk jams, and more. We seized the opportunity to taste Hokkaido’s renowned dairy offerings, and we were very satisfied with our experience. Soft-serves in winter? Why not?

Our final destination was the snowmobile track in Sobetsu, just about 15 minutes away from the Lake Hill Farm. The tour offers an optional ride as part of the tour. For those interested in riding in tandem, the fee is JPY 12,000 per snowmobile, while individual riders can enjoy the experience for JPY 14,000. All necessary safety gear is provided, and participants can look forward to an exciting hour-long ride along the scenic and icy tracks of Sobetsu, with a brief break midway.

As it was our first experience with snowmobiling, we initially felt a bit apprehensive, but we quickly grew more comfortable. It’s important to note that in adherence to the park’s safety policies, taking photos or videos while riding is not permitted. However, guests are welcome to capture moments during the break when the snowmobiles are parked, which occurs about halfway through the ride. Overall, it was a truly rewarding experience, and we highly recommend it!

Our tour, filled with unforgettable and first-time moments, had to come to an end. The experiences we shared and the memories we created will surely remain with us for the rest of our lives.

As we made the two-hour bus ride back to our hotel, the streets of Sapporo unfolded before us. Finally, we approached Odori Station with the view of Sapporo’s iconic TV Tower standing tall and vibrant against the night sky.